The Razor Ratings

After deciding to revamp the lather ratings and give it a permanent spot that I could update as needed, I’ve decided the same thing needs to happen with the razor ratings on this site.

Last time I did a full razor rating post was in October 2025. Well, I’ve added 4 more razors since then, and two of them are adjustable in some form or another, so I effectively added 10 more razor settings to a list of 6 razors and 11 razor settings.

And, let’s face it, as much as I say I’ve got enough, I think we all know I’ll probably break that vow pretty soon anyway. So I need to be prepared for consistent growth and expansion.

So here goes:

#RazorBlade GapBlade ExposureWeightHandle LengthMaterialRatingReview
1Henson Shaving AL-13+ Mild0.68mm0.033mm38g95mmAluminum4.75Those plusses after the Henson product name are how they differentiate the products, with 1, 2 or 3 plusses etched on the base plates of the razors, denoting mild, medium, or aggressive. The mild is and performs exactly as its name indicates. It is a mild, comfortable shave all of the time, regardless of the blade. It glides well with the right amount of slickness from the lather, and shaving with either of the Hensons just makes me happy because it delivers a satisfying result. As I said earlier, if I’m looking for a mild shave, I will always grab this razor before anything else, because I know it will deliver.
2Mühle R890.45mmNegative58g92mmChrome plated metal alloy4.75After just one week of shaves, I’m in love with this razor. It’s incredibly comfortable, has an excellent weight to it, and is amazingly smooth. It isn’t hugely efficient, mostly due to the negative blade exposure, but I have yet to get an uncomfortable shave from it.
3Henson Shaving AL-13++ medium0.85mm0.058mm37g96mmAluminum4.75Again, thanks to its design, it works impeccably, with more blade feel and efficiency than the mild. The handle length is perfect, and I have no problems with it slipping in my grip.
4Rockwell 6C plate 30.48mmunk100g85mmZinc Alloy4.75Nicely heavy, it has an excellent smooth stroke. Plate 3 seems to be the sweet spot for a lot of blades, combining efficiency with comfort. This razor just feels like it’s got the refined engineering that it does.
5Oliworks M3teorite Medium Plate0.76mm0.137mm40.5g90mmAluminum4.75Minimal blade feel, but with more efficiency than the mild plate. The handle is very grippy, and the head has rounded off corners for comfort.
6Rockwell 6C plate 20.35mmunk100g85mmZinc Alloy4.75Similar to the plate 3 thoughts, but the extra mildness with this plate feels outstanding. With a similar mildness to the Henson mild, this is comfortable and pleasant for just about every shave.
6Merkur Progress 500 Adjustable setting 1unkunk90g89mmBrass, Zinc4.75Excellent comfort, delivered more efficiency than I expected from that mild a setting. There was minimal irritation, but it took to good lubrication and glided very well across my skin.
7Merkur Progress 500 Adjustable setting 2unkunk90g89mmBrass, Zinc4.75Mostly comfortable, close and efficient, with some mild irritation. This felt pleasant and good, and will be a setting I will use frequently. It glides nicely and the weight helps make it sit against the skin.
8Rockwell 6C plate 40.61mmunk100g85mmZinc Alloy4.50A comfortable but slightly more aggressive shave, seeming to be slightly more aggressive than the Henson medium. But the smoothness and weight seem to help balance things and make for a nice shave.
9Oliworks M3teorite Mild plate0.51mm0.069mm40.5g90mmAluminum4.50Almost too mild, but very comfortable. It requires a lot of extra passes, but doesn’t seem to contribute to any extra irritation. Milder than the Henson mild, but not as mild as the Rockwell 6C plate 1.
10Goodfellas’ Smile Syntesi0.62mm0.02mm34g87mmAluminum4.50Extremely light and small feeling with a short handle. Fortunately, the handle design prevents slipping. The machined aluminum design has left the top cap rough, so it doesn’t glide as nicely on wet skin, but with good lubrication, it works just fine and provides a very nice shave.
11Oliworks M3teorite Aggressive plate1.02mm0.206mm40.5g90mmAluminum4.50Some say that this is a big step up from the Medium, but I didn’t think it was that much more aggressive-feeling. It’s fairly comfortable, with a lot of blade feel, but seems suited to longer growth shave days.
12Rockwell 6C plate 50.69mmunk100g85mmZinc Alloy4.50With a definitely more aggressive feel, this plate isn’t terribly uncomfortable, but I won’t reach for it first. There’s a lot of blade noise and feel with the Rockwell, especially on the higher numbered plates, and that translates to slightly more irritation.
13King C Gillette0.76mmunk102g101mmChrome plated stainless steel4.50A very nice razor for its price point. But it falls down here because I have better and more comfortable options. I love its weight and smoothness, and don’t mind the handle, even though some people find it too slick. It’s well made and engineered, and is good for those looking for a medium-mild shave.
14Rockwell 6C plate 10.20mmunk100g85mmZinc Alloy4.25Very mild, and almost too mild. It requires alot of extra effort to get a good shave out of this, but it isn’t really that unpleasant. But given my choice, I’d prefer a shave with plates 2 or 3.
15Merkur Progress 500 Adjustable setting 4unkunk90g89mmBrass, Zinc4.25I’ve called it deceptively aggressive, because there wasn’t the blade feel that I’d otherwise expect from an aggressive shave. It was aggressive, and not as efficient as I thought there would be from that aggressive a shave.
16Parker 55SL Semi-Slantunkunk96g102mmBrass3.75Slant razors are, by their very nature, aggressive, and this one is aggressive. With a mild blade and very light technique and the right lather, I can get an okay shave with some irritation.
17Van Der Hagen0.56 or 0.71mm (unclear)unkunk85mmMetal3.00Cheap in every possible way, even to the point where its manufacturer just says it’s made of metal. It feels imprecise and not well-engineered, and after using better razors, this one just isn’t worth the trouble.
18Rockwell 6C plate 60.79mmunk100g85mmZinc AlloyuntestedI haven’t gotten the guts up yet to test this out, but people say it’s pretty aggressive.
19Merkur Progress 500 Adjustable setting 3unkunk90g89mmBrass, Zincuntested
21Merkur Progress 500 Adjustable setting 5unkunk90g89mmBrass, Zincuntested

Definitions: Blade gap: the space between the plate and cap of the razor that the blade sits in. Less usually means a milder shave. Blade exposure: How much blade is exposed from under the cap, and comes into contact with the skin. Less (or a negative exposure) will translate to a milder shave.