For the next two weeks, I’ll be comparing two blades from the same brand in shaves with the same razor. It is a derby, of sorts–a competition between two similar items to see who’s better.
And the brand I’ll be comparing is Derby, specifically their Extra and Premium blades. So you see, it’s a Derby derby. Get it? (posing, waiting for laughter to die down)
The derby–the competition, that is–will be held using the Rockwell 6C, probably just plates 2 and 3, but I do reserve the right to modify that if needed. Plates 1 and 4 are a possibility. But the consistency in the razor is important, and I decided to use the Rockwell instead of the Henson because the Henson will get plenty of use in a couple more weeks after the derby–again, the competition.
I thought these two weeks of shaves are brilliant in name and composition. But let’s talk about Derby, the company. Derby has been making razor blades, and presumably other shaving products, in Turkey since 1939. These days, they seem to only make 2 double-edge blades (the Extra and Premium), and 3 single-edge or shavette blades (Extra, Premium, and Professional). Though honestly, there appears to be very little difference between the Extra and Professional packaging.
Their website is fronted by the “Derby Blades Info Hub,” which lists an address in Portland, OR that Google says doesn’t exist. So yeah. The blades exist, which means someone’s making them, and the story about being in business in Turkey since 1939 could very well be legit.
The Extras are blades that you see from time to time in barber shops and even in places like Sally’s Beauty Supply. So they aren’t really all that rare. According to the packaging, they’re chromium-ceramic platinum tungsten polymer coated blades. Which seems to say they’re the usual stainless base with a coating of a whole bunch of stuff applied on top. I’ll try to note what the Premiums are coated with in next week’s post.
They ship in the plastic tuck rather than cardboard, which I don’t like for a couple of reasons: first, plastic. Second, it’s that much harder to slide the blade out of the box. And third, it’s a bigger form factor for the box, which makes storing them slightly more challenging.
I have kind of limited expectations here. I think they’re probably going to be about average, hopefully holding their edge well, but likely will be outclassed by their more stylish siblings next week. But I’ve been wrong before about the seemingly lower expectation blades.
This week will feature the second shave with the Proraso red pre-shave and soap. I was not as impressed with them last time as I am with the rest of the Proraso line. So I’m hoping this will give me firmer feelings one way or the other. I’ve held off this long waiting to try the red line, and I really do have it in my head that it’s just going to be okay for me because I don’t have thicker hairs that need nourishing and softening. At least I think I don’t.
I will be pulling out the Fine Accoutrements Bay Rum shaving soap this week for its first appearance. Interestingly, I just got an email this week from the “Mr. Fine” explaining that they’re changing their branding from Fine Accoutrements to just Fine. But when I got this, they were Fine Accoutrements and weren’t Fine yet, so I guess they were just okay before. <groan>
I plan on emptying the Razor Emporium Nordic soap sample container this week in a menthol cooled shave on Thursday. And I’ll also be debuting the Maggard Razors Purple Swirl synthetic brush for that shave.
And you’ll note that every shave this week is with a sample soap. Just one of those things…
These shaves bring me ever closer to Shave 300, and I’ve got some unique plans for that week, which happens at the end of June, so it won’t interfere with the Anniversary Month in August.
But let’s get to the Extra’s week of shaves and see how they go.
The Ratings
Sunday’s Shave, #291. The Proraso Sunday Red Derby Extra Shave.
The setup:
- Razor: Rockwell 6C plate 3
- Blade: Derby Extra
- Pre-Shave: Proraso Nourishing pre-shave cream (red)
- Brush: Proraso boar shaving brush
- Soap/Cream/Gel: Proraso Nourishing shaving soap (red)
- Alum Block: Stirling Soap Co. Alum
- After Shave: Proraso Sensitive after shave balm (white)
- Stats:
- 48th shave with the Rockwell 6C (all plates)
- 2nd shave with the Proraso red pre-shave and lather
- 16th blade used with the Rockwell
- 29th blade used in my shaves
- 1st shave with the Rockwell since early February (also for a comparison–the Shark comparison shaves)
- 106th almost perfect shave
- 70th shave with an overall rating of 23 (31.0% of all logged shaves)
- 7th almost perfect shave with the Rockwell plate 3
Okay, first off, I’m trying to take pictures of the daily shave in the studio setup that I have here, and when I did it with the Sunday shave, I forgot to include the blades. Oh well.
The first shave with a new blade is always interesting and somewhat stressful. I try to go into a shave with a new blade with an open mind and no expectations, but honestly, I can’t help but expect certain results based on what little I know. And sometimes, I just make assumptions about how things will go.
And I did with the Derby Extra, whether I knew it or not. I expected it to be just a basic, inexpensive blade that would be average. Not great and not bad. But to say that I’m pleasantly surprised by this first shave would be an understatement. It was surprisingly smooth, with very little blade feel, but still a closeness that I wasn’t expecting. I fully expected to have to make an extra pass, but that wasn’t needed. Just three passes and a few cleanup strokes on the neck to pick up the trouble spots. And while it wasn’t as close as some shaves I’ve had, this would get me by happily.
I know I say this kind of thing about many of my razors, but I think I do truly forget how good a shave the Rockwell can provide. It just glides so smoothly and comfortable, and it holds the blades wonderfully well. It’s just clearly very well engineered and performs very well.
The Proraso red pre-shave and lather worked well, and while I don’t find the fragrance offensive or overpowering, I can’t say I really like it. It’s woody and warm smelling, and it’s fine, but if given a choice, I’d choose the other Proraso formulas first. That being said, and knowing who I am, I’m probably pretty likely to stock the red product line at some point in the future.
So, all-in-all for a first shave with a blade, I’m extremely happy with its performance and look forward to going through the week with them.
Comfort: 24 of 25
Quality/Closeness: 23 of 25
Overall: 24 of 25
Tuesday’s Shave, #292. The First Fine (Accoutrements) Shave.
The setup:
- Razor: Rockwell 6C plate 2
- Blade: Derby Extra
- Pre-Shave: Goodfellas’ Smile Dawn of Glory pre-shave gel
- Brush: Omega S10049 synthetic
- Soap/Cream/Gel: Fine Accoutrements Bay Rum shaving soap
- Alum Block: Stirling Soap Co. Alum
- After Shave: Nivea Men Sensitive Soothing post shave balm
- Stats:
- 1st shave with the Fine Accoutrements Bay Rum lather
- 54th lather used in my shaves
- 21st lather used with the Rockwell
- 2nd shave with the Dawn of Glory pre-shave
- 3rd shave with the Omega S10049 brush
- 107th almost perfect shave
- 71st shave with an overall rating of 23 (31.3% of all logged shaves)
- 7th almost perfect shave with the Rockwell plate 2
The Fine Accoutrements…or Fine…soap was, well, fine. It isn’t outstanding or amazing, or something that I’ll remember, but at the same time, it wasn’t bad or subpar. The lather was good, but not rich or thick. The fragrance was there, but not in-your-face aggressive like some are. It was really just okay. Or fine, to hold to the motif. Obviously, I’ve got to do a second shave with it before I fully rate it, but this is where I am for now.
The pre-shave, for its second use, proved very slick again. Because it’s a thin gel, I’m not applying it like the others, where I’ll put some on a finger or two and then rub it on my face, instead, I put some in my hand, rubbed them together and then applied to my face and neck.
The Omega synthetic brush is nice–it’s stiff but dense, so it lathers pretty efficiently and applies well. So no complaints here. But that being said, I’m not sure it’s really going to be a favorite. I’m not sure. I’m still evaluating.
This was a very comfortable shave, with some blade feel, but limited irritation, despite needing some extra strokes to get the closeness I want, though I didn’t quite get to Sunday’s closeness. This wasn’t unexpected, as a milder razor setup usually means more strokes. But this was certainly a shave that I would come back to.
So, to recap, this was a fine shave that would be worth returning to.
Comfort: 24 out of 25
Quality/Closeness: 22 out of 25
Overall: 23 out of 25
Thursday’s Shave, #293. The Cool Nordic Shave.
The setup:
- Razor: Rockwell 6C plate 2
- Blade: Derby Extra
- Pre-Shave: Razor Emporium Menthol pre-shave soap stick
- Brush: Maggard Razors Purple Swirl synthetic
- Soap/Cream/Gel: Razor Emporium Nordic shaving soap
- Alum Block: Stirling Soap Co. Alum
- After Shave: Duke Cannon Ice Cold aftershave balm
- Stats:
- 5th (and last) shave with the Nordic lather sample
- Last shave for a while with Razor Emporium lathers
- 56th shave with the Rockwell 6C
- 16th shave with the Rockwell’s plate 2 (most of all plates)
- 8th almost perfect shave with the Rockwell plate 2
- 108th almost perfect shave
- 72nd shave with an overall rating of 23 (31.6% of all logged shaves)
- 5th straight almost perfect shave
Finishing up the week with the Derby Extra blades, I have to say that I’m surprised and impressed with the consistent performance of the blades. It held its edge all week, delivered good, comfortable, smooth shaves, and just demonstrated that it’s a solid performer. I’m hoping this promises good things next week, but as always, I need to test it out.
As noted, I bid a farewell to another sample soap: the Razor Emporium Nordic soap delivered its fifth and last shave. It was one of the better soaps that I had from RE, producing a very nice lather and a pleasant, mild scent. But ultimately, it just isn’t a great, standout lather that I see the need to stock further. In the meantime, I’ve got another available sample tub to use for travel supplies.
Speaking of the lather, my first use of the Maggard Razors Purple Swirl synthetic brush was great. As with most synthetic brushes I have and use, it’s got a dense head, and these bristles are on the softer side, more similar to the Parker Blue Storm brush.
And finally, just a note (more to myself than anything) that I don’t show enough love to the Rockwell 6C. It really is a great razor. The plates provide a good range of shaving experiences, and the weight and build are just solid. It’s comfortable, glides well, and consistently delivers good results. For its price, it’s an outstanding razor.
Wrapping up the week and delivering the review of the Derby Extra blades, I had a solid week of very nice shaves, and I didn’t expect that. While the blade isn’t one of the best I’ve experienced, it’s certainly good and worth a spot in the rotation. I’ll be returning to it in the future, for sure.
Next week, I’ll compare it with the Derby Premium blade.
Comfort: 23 out of 25
Quality/Closeness: 23 out of 25
Overall: 23 out of 25